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Aeroponics Vs. Hydroponics: Which Is Best For You?

There is a lot of confusion around the differences between aeroponics and hydroponics. Let’s take a closer look at the differences, similarities, important factors, pros, and cons, and discuss the best option for your garden.

What Is Aeroponics?

Aeroponics is a method of growing plants and vegetables without soil or any other growing medium. It is a subset of hydroponics that produces plants faster and more efficiently than traditional farming methods. When growing aeroponically, the plant is suspended with the plant’s roots exposed and then sprayed with a fine mist of nutrient-rich solution. 

Aeroponics allows you to be efficient with both your time and your natural resources. The plant’s root system receives more oxygen than its ground-living counterparts, as well as faster nutrient delivery, causing a rapid rate of plant growth. And, according to NASA, aeroponic systems reduce your water usage by up to 98%.

There are two kinds of aeroponics: High-Pressure Aeroponics and Low-Pressure Aeroponics.

aeroponics illustration

Who Discovered Aeroponics?

It’s difficult to pinpoint the actual discovery of aeroponics, as several researchers and biologists over nearly a hundred years contributed to its development. The term “aeroponics” was first coined by Dutch researcher Frits Warmolt Went in 1957. He was continuing the research of Russian exobiologist Vladimir Arsikhovski from the early 1900s, specifically his study called “On Air Plant Cultures.”

But it wasn’t until Richard Stoner first submitted an aeroponic patent in 1983 that the term aeroponics received the recognition it deserved. With his new systems on the market, aeroponics grew in popularity. From there, aeroponics-grown food was soon sold in national grocery stores.

Stoner was a strong supporter of aeroponics’ resource-conserving capabilities, particularly its efficient use of water. He wasn’t the only one. Aeroponics soon caught the attention of NASA and the EDEN ISS for its potential uses in future space travel.

What is hydroponics?

Hydroponics is the process of growing vegetables or plants without the use of soil. But it can use another growth medium, like Rockwool, coco coir, perlite, or vermiculite.

Traditionally, there is a grow tray, which holds your hydroponic plants in a growing medium. Your system’s water reservoir is placed nearby, and water is either pumped through tubes or absorbed through a wick.

With hydroponics, you replace the soil with a nutrient-rich solution that goes in the water. Plant roots can be flooded and drained on a cycle or in Deep Water Culture hydroponics, or permanently submerged in water. Hydroponics offers the advantage of no energy wasted searching for nutrients.

When choosing a hydroponics system, there’s a lot to think about. Here are some of our favorites currently on the market:

What’s the best hydroponic system for you? It all depends on the size, price, and yields you’re looking for.

women doing yoga in front of iHarvest with TwoPeas discount code

What Is The Difference Between Hydroponics and Aeroponics?

Aeroponics is typically considered to be under the umbrella of hydroponics (the same goes for an aquaponics system). Still, there are a handful of key differences between it and any other type of hydroponics.
Here’s a great resource on Top Aquaponics Fish Tank.

Quick Explanation Video of Hydroponics Vs. Aeroponics

I went back and forth about adding the video below in this article. I’ve never seen someone smile so much while talking about plants dying from dehydration. But that said, she provides an incredible amount of information that’s easy to digest:

Growing Medium

With a hydroponic garden and hydroponic systems, you use a growing medium such as perlite, gravel, sand, Rockwool (rock wool), coconut husks, or clay pellets. With Aeroponics, the critical difference is that you do not use a growing medium at all. Instead, you expose the plant’s root system directly to oxygen. The benefit here is that your aeroponic plants get direct access to nutrients, making it the more efficient way to grow plants.

Clay pebbles – often called LECA or hydroton – are a lightweight hydroponic substrate that works well in most hydroponics forms, including aquaponics.

brown leca clay pebbles
LECA or hydroton is used as a growing medium for aeroponics and hydroponics.

Watering

When using a hydroponic method, your plants are traditionally either submerged in a trough of nutrient-rich water or a regular flow of water is running through the growing medium. With aeroponics, the root zone is fed with a pressurized mist of nutrient-rich water. This spray is set on a timer (at least for high-pressure aeroponics), while with most forms of hydroponics, the plants and growing medium are consistently in contact with water. Like all forms of hydroponics, you’re not using as much water as traditional growing methods.

The clear winner in terms of water efficiency is aeroponics. With aeroponic plants in a controlled environment, you can expect to use fewer gallons of water than other types of hydroponics.

watering system hydroponics vs aeroponics graphic

That said, it’s pretty tricky to compare water usage properly. In the case of hydroponics, water is usually measured in gallons per hour. With aeroponics, it is measured by the pressure of the nutrient solution – or pounds per inch.

Resilience

If there’s ever a power outage or problem with your equipment, the pressure pumps on your hydroponic system – aeroponic or otherwise – could shut off. A temporarily dead pump on most hydroponic systems isn’t a big deal, and the plants will likely be fine as long as the nutrient solution begins flowing again soon. For aeroponics, though, the plant’s roots are exposed and can quickly dry out and die without getting a regular spray of water.

Plant Security

With an aeroponic garden, you don’t have a growing medium to keep the plants and plants’ roots in place. To secure them, you’ll either need to use clips, foam sheets, or even boards with holes. In other forms of hydroponics, plants are held in place with various growing mediums, such as Rockwool. 

Aeration

With hydroponics, you need to figure out a way to oxygenate your roots. The roots need air to breathe, and it allows them to absorb hydroponic nutrients and water. To solve for this, most hydroponic systems use air stones, pumps, the Ktraky method – and a few other options.

Photo Title Price Buy
Aneco 6 Pack...image Aneco 6 Pack Air Stones Bubble Diffuser Large Airstones Cylinder Shape Aerator for Aquarium and Hydroponics Air Pump, 4 x 2 Inch
REDGO Slient 2...image REDGO Slient 2 Air Bubble Disk Stone Aerator Aquarium Fish Tank Pond Pump Hydroponic Oxygen with 2M Silicone Tube $13.99
Mudder 4 Pieces...image Mudder 4 Pieces Round Air Stone Disc Hydroponics Pump Bubble Diffuser Release Tool for Aquarium with 12 Pieces Suction Cups Fish Tank Aerator Air Stone Kit $18.99
AQUANEAT Aquarium 4 AQUANEAT Aquarium 4"x2" Cylinder Air Stone Fish Tank Aerator Diffuser Hydroponics (4 pcs) $16.88
101 PCS 4...image 101 PCS 4 Inch Air Stone Disc Bubble Diffuser with Sucker, 52 ft Silicone Airline Tubing with Air Pump Accessories, 4 Control Valve,4 Check Valves, 12 Suction Cups for Hydroponics Aquarium Fish Tank $29.99

But with aeroponics, you don’t need to do any of that. The pressurized spray of needed nutrients on the roots provides all the aeration you need.

Skill Level

Hydroponics in all its forms, including aeroponics, is a great way to get faster plant growth in an eco-friendly way. That said, certain hydroponic methods are easier than others. A simple hydroponic system can be set up with minimal effort or skill. For instance, a wick system doesn’t even require electricity!

wick system illustration by okstate edu

Aeroponics, though, requires a system that sprays pressurized water upon your plants’ roots – often on a timer. If you’re planning to build your high-pressure aeroponics system, you will need to consider the pressure, the pump, the water lines, the hole that sprays the water, as well as a way for keeping the plants in place and keeping the water contained. 

Even if you go the route of buying an aeroponic system, you will still need to regularly test the nutrients, monitor the plants, keep the system functional, etc. It can be a complex task for gardeners who are new to hydroponics. 

Energy Requirements

With many traditional growing methods, you’re using fewer fossil fuels and energy resources than hydroponics growing. Typically growing anything in an enclosed environment with pumps and electricity requires higher energy than other farming systems. 

That said, the energy requirements between most forms of hydroponics (excluding the wick and Ktratky systems) are pretty similar.

aeroponics system vertical setup farm

Types Of Aeroponics

There are two primary forms of aeroponic systems: High-pressure aeroponics and low-pressure aeroponics, although some people would lump fogponics into this category.

High-Pressure Aeroponics

High-pressure aeroponics (HPA) is the most effective and debatably the purest form of aeroponics. It requires the nutrient-rich water mist solution to be sprayed with high pressure – at least 80 PSI through a small hole – causing an incredibly fine mist (We’re talking microscopically fine). The direct access to the root system improves the rate of nutrient absorption. Misting is set on a timer and then sprayed at intervals of three to five minutes through spray nozzles. 

Low-Pressure Aeroponics

Low-Pressure Aeroponics (LPA), much like it sounds, refers to using a lower pressure level to mist the plants. Typically, this system can be quickly built using a sprinkler head, tubing, and a pump. While not as effective as HPAs, it’s still a good option that’s relatively easy to construct yourself.

Bonus: Ultrasonic Foggers

I want to briefly bring up ultrasonic foggers. They are also being used to water plants, but the results seem pretty mixed. With foggers, a mist of incredibly small water droplets is created. Unfortunately, it appears that in most cases, it’s difficult to guarantee that the roots are getting enough water – and there are some issues with cleaning this sensitive system due to mineral buildup.

Pros & Cons of Aeroponics

Aeroponics is a highly sophisticated way to grow plants, but like all methods, there are some pros and cons to consider. We’ll start with the good news:

Pros of Aeroponics

  • Higher yields than traditional gardening and other forms of hydroponics
  • Faster growth of plants
  • Less time needed to feed and water your plants
  • Significantly lower risk of drying out
  • Better root zone aeration than hydroponically grown systems
  • Significantly lower risk of overwatering 
  • Less water use than traditional growing methods or other forms of hydroponics
  • A grow medium isn’t needed
  • Plants can be moved without much effort
  • Easy to replace old plants with new plants
  • When growing indoors aeroponically, you don’t have to worry about growing seasons
  • Fewer pests
  • Less disease
  • Extended growing season
comparison aeroponics hydroponics hand watered

Complete Control Of Nutrients

Gardeners have complete control over liquid nutrients in aeroponic systems and all varieties of hydroponics. When compared to plants that grow in soil, your plants use less energy with these systems. Watering plants grown in soil-free cultivation systems takes up only 10% of the time it takes to water plants cultivated in traditional methods.

Cons of Aeroponics

  • Plants are dependent on the system working correctly to keep from drying out
  • The root chamber requires regular cleaning to keep diseases away from the roots of the plants
  • More skill level needed to successfully operate the aeroponic system
  • Higher initial costs than other types of hydroponic systems.
  • Typically grown in larger facilities where you can pay constant attention to the plants
  • The aeroponics system needs to be monitored for machinery fails regularly
  • Potential for one or more of the automatic systems/technology to fail
  • Can be noisy – not always great for small spaces

Aeroponic pH

Managing your pH is an essential part of aeroponic and hydroponic gardening/farming. For most plants, your hydroponics and aeroponics systems should have a pH range of 5.7 to 6.3. If you keep your pH in this range, your plants will be able to absorb all of the nutrients available to them.

To gauge the pH of your water, you should start with a simple pH meter for hydroponics.

From there, you can modify your pH levels with a pH Control Kit. Commonly, these kits have a pH up formula and a pH down the formula. They’re a surprisingly affordable way to give your aeroponic plants access to the nutrient levels they need.

Aeroponic Nutrients

While traditional growing methods rely on fertilizer and soil quality, you aren’t using a growing medium with aeroponics. Instead, all of your nutrients must come from a nutrient solution.

While aeroponic plants receive carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen from water and air, you’ll need to provide them with other nutrients, such as nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, copper, zinc, molybdenum, iron, cobalt, phosphorus, calcium, and boron.

Here are some of the tip options for aeroponics nutrients available on the market.

Photo Title Price Buy
BlueMax Fertilizer Set...image BlueMax Fertilizer Set (128 Fluid Oz Bottles) Gallon | Concentrated Plant Food for All Plants & Gardens | Makes Up to 1,890 Gallons | Blue Planet Nutrients $78.95 ($0.31 / Fl Oz)
Complete Plant Food...image Complete Plant Food Fertilizer Set | Elite High Yield System Economy (32 oz Bottles) | for All Gardens & Plants | Hydroponic Aeroponic Soil Coco Coir | Made in USA | Blue Planet Nutrients $145.95
Humboldts Secret Set...image Humboldts Secret Set of A & B Liquid Hydroponics Fertilizer - World's Best Nutrient System – Hydroponic Nutrients for Outdoor, Indoor Plants – Supports Vegetative and Flowering Stages of Plants $44.97

How To Build An Aeroponics System

Although we won’t spend a great deal of time on it in this article, the video below does an excellent job of showing you how to build your own aeroponic system.

Soil vs. Non-Soil Growing Systems

Historically, agriculturists have mainly used soil for growing plants. But there have been advancements in technology and research that show some growing alternatives to using soil.

Growing mediums that are not made with soil are great for transferring nutrients and lack unwanted additions, like fungus, e. coli, diseases, pests, or a number of pathogens that could be found in garden soil. Most hydroponic systems use these non-soil-growing mediums. 

Similarly, when growing with an aeroponic system, you don’t have to worry about soil pathogens because the plant roots are left exposed. 

Soil Limitations and Problems

I don’t want to be the guy who criticizes dirt, but when you grow your plants in regular soil, many factors can slow or inhibit your growth. Here are some of the downsides of growing in soil.

  • Plant growth takes longer
  • More maintenance needed, such as regular feeding and watering
  • Pests can potentially live in the soil and cause a severe threat
  • Weeds may be present in the soil
  • Diseases, bacterial growth, mold, and pathogens may be present in the soil
  • May be too dense to allow for air or water movement in a container

Alternative growing mediums are excellent options for most hydroponic systems. Unlike the soil, they don’t generally have diseases, insects, weeds, or anything else unsavory living inside. Instead, they drain water incredibly well and are made up of materials like perlite, vermiculite, coconut coir, sphagnum peat moss.

And again, for the aeroponic system, there’s no need to choose which growing medium is best for you. Your roots will be just fine without being surrounded by dirt or anything else.

aeroponics linkedin post featured image
LinkedIn Post: Critical System Analysis of Aeroponics | Photo by CombaGroup.

Aeroponics or Hydroponics: Which Is Better?

All said and done, the best type of growing system depends on your needs. Hydroponics is a great choice for beginners because it teaches you the essentials and has a lower barrier of entry. On the other hand, Aeroponics setups produce bigger yields, faster growth, and larger returns on the initial investment in less time. 

While aeroponics systems have a slight edge in terms of plant growth and crop yield, it’s probably not necessary unless you’re growing at a commercial scale. Both alternative agricultural methods thrive in the absence of traditional soil.

Conclusion

Aeroponics is one of the most misunderstood methods for growing plants, and yet it grows plants quicker than other forms of hydroponics and requires less water. And while it may take a little more upfront investment, close attention, and engineering know-how, it’s a great option for the seasoned grower. 

Have you had an experience with aeroponic systems? Let us know about it in the comments.

The Best Grow Lights For Indoor Plants & Small Spaces

When getting started with indoor gardening, whether beginning with seeds, starter plants, or even scraps, one of the most important considerations is the kind of lighting you’ll need. Depending on your grow space, what you plan on working with, and when you get started, odds are that you’re going to need a grow light to either replace or supplement the sun at some point. This article will cover what you need to know about the different types of grow lights and their properties including things like spectrum and a few of the other considerations in order to help you decide which product is right for you.

Help us grow! This post contains affiliate links, which means we receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something recommended. All opinions however are our own and we do not accept payments for positive reviews.

Products Covered In This Article:

Our Favorite Small Grow Light Of 2022

If you’re looking for an affordable small grow light option, we highly recommend the 16h Cycle Multi-Purpose LED Grow Lights, which has four different lights that you can turn in multiple directions. It’s great for houseplants, tomatoes, and potatoes.

Why And When Should You Use Grow Lights?

Grow lights are a simple and effective way to provide sufficient light and sustain plants when they can’t get enough sunlight. And since most of us  live in homes with roofs, our plants will naturally receive less light than if they were growing in an outdoor garden. And some of us live in areas with naturally less light – whether that’s caused by overcast conditions or nearby buildings blocking the sun. 

gardener's grow light stand products

But how do you know if you actually need an additional grow light? It’s always a good idea to tart by researching your plants’ light requirements. For instance, if you’re growing lettuce indoors that needs full sun throughout the day – but your home only gets a few hours of direct light – you should probably get a small grow light to assist. 

Another way to tell is by watching how your plants grow. Have you noticed your seedlings are growing tall and leggy? They’re extending their stems and leaves in search of more sun. Vegetable seedlings that do not receive enough light become lanky, low, and frail (also known as “leggy”). Too little light can affect your plants’ development, making them weaker or even causing them to die.

Using grow lights is one of the easiest ways to avoid leggy seedlings and grow the healthiest, thriving plants.

The Best Small Grow Lights For Indoor Gardeners

For most indoor growers, a commercial-grade indoor light isn’t a practical or affordable option. Fortunately, there are several small grow lights available that not only work well but also keep your pocket book in check. 

Here are some of our favorite small grow lights for indoor use. Most of these options allow you to change the light intensity and set light timers, which is a huge bonus.

The Best Grow Lights For Indoor Plants

Before we get into this, I want to note we won’t be listing specific prices because they change often. However, I will try to give you ranges or approximations. But here are some of the best light options for your indoor gardening needs.

[amazon_auto_links id=”1711″]

GE Lighting 30-Watt Full Spectrum LED Grow Light

I like the GE products because to the naked human eye, it looks like white light. This means you can display your plants and grow them while also having it look like a more natural light in your home. There are packages for seeds and greens as well as fruits and flowers. Think of that blue and red discussion from earlier. This comes in around $50, although for some reason the 4-foot version is less expensive than the 2-foot one at the moment.

vertical indoor garden with GE grow lights

GE Lighting BR30 Full Spectrum LED Grow Light Bulb For Indoor Plants

This is a single-bulb version of the system above if you don’t want to rack mount your lights. You can get these for under $10. Again, they come in both a seed and greens as well as a flower and fruit version.

VOGEK Grow Light, 144 LED Plant Growing Light With, Adjustable Gooseneck & Desk Clip On

This product has a gooseneck, allowing you to get just the right angle. It’s designed to be clipped on a desk. There are three heads and five brightness settings. Finally, it has an automatic timer. This comes in around $50.

LED Grow Lights, Full Spectrum Panel Grow Lamp With IR & UV LED Plant Lights For Indoor Plants

It looks a little disco, but these are cheap and get the job done. This mix of red and blue lights will keep your plants growing and happy for about $30. As mentioned above, the downside with this type of light is that it doesn’t mimic the natural light of the sun, but depending on your goals with your plants, you may not care. This particular panel doesn’t allow for adjustment for different purposes, but if you’re looking to cover a wider area more cost-effectively, this may be right for you.

man watering the plants under LED grow lights

BLOOMSPECT Upgraded 1000W LED Grow Lights With Veg & RED & Bloom

Continuing in the vein of products that look like they’ve been transplanted from a dance hall, there’s this grow light from BLOOMSPECT. The total power output of this rig is 1,000 W, so this would significantly upgrade your indoor gardening operation. Additionally, there are adjustable modes for vegetation, flowering and a red channel to kickstart photosynthesis.

VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 1200W LED Grow Light, With Veg And Bloom Switches

This best is our final entry in a series of products that make you ask whether they are grow lights or devices on an alien spaceship. This one is our most expensive entry at just under $400, but for that you get 1,200 W of LED light plant growth. The growing area is more than 20 square feet at the manufacturer’s recommended height for vegetation modes and 9.5 square feet for plants getting ready to flower.

Grow Tent Options

A grow tent is a tall, narrow tent with reflective interior walls. They’re usually small, lightproof, waterproof,  and have airtight vents. There’s typically enough room inside to hang a grow light, place a few plants, and plug in a fan.

The benefit of a grow tent is that you can give your plant a more controlled temperature, light, water, and humidity, which can help plants grow faster. If you want to get a grow tent with your grow light, here are some options we recommend:

Types Of Grow Lights & Light Bulbs

Like all home gardening equipment, grow lights vary greatly in quality, features, and price point. You also should consider the stages of plant growth. Before buying, refer to the light types below.

Incandescent Light Bulbs

Incandescent lights are lit by heating up a metal filament until it grows so hot that it glows. These bulbs may be used to grow your plants, but it would be a horrendously inefficient way of doing so and has a chance of burning them. Incandescent bulbs aren’t very energy efficient. According to several sources including this one from Penn State, about 90% of the energy used by incandescent bulbs is given off in the form of heat instead of visible light. That’s a lot of heat!

There are more efficient incandescent options, but none of them are efficient enough to make this a viable option. Finally, incandescent bulbs don’t tend to have a long lifespan, and it will be further shortened by the fact that plants need lots of light. There are better options available in the grow light space.

Fluorescent Lights

In standard fluorescent bulbs, the visible light is formed through an interaction between electric current, mercury and phosphor in a glass tube. This is about 85% efficient from an energy to light conversion standpoint. They don’t give off nearly as much heat as their incandescent counterparts. The downside to these for plant growth is that they don’t tend to be very bright. They’re also bigger and more bulky, but since they are cheaper than some other alternatives, they can be good for seedlings and starter plants. If a plant is a flowering one, you probably want to avoid using fluorescent lights.

High Intensity Discharge (HID)

These lights work by sending an electrical charge through an ionized gas and between two electrodes. The initial arc heats a plasma which dramatically increases the light output. Because of the mechanics of the reaction, these don’t last as long if they are constantly being turned on and off, but because plants need lots of light, that shouldn’t be too much of an issue. They are used for this type of application because once they are on, they are highly efficient.

Two types of grow light HID that are commonly used are metal halide (MH) and high-pressure sodium (HPS). Although metal halide bulbs aren’t as efficient as some others, they’re still very efficient and the metal halide in them means that they give off a cold white light with lots of blue that can be very helpful for seedlings, young plants and plants that are in a resting stage. We’ll get more into wavelengths shortly.

HPS bulbs use sodium in order to act as a medium through which white is filtered to create different colors. It tends to be yellow when the device is fully warmed up after 5 or 10 minutes. Depending on what else is in the light, manufacturers can counterbalance this to create different color combinations. The real advantage of these lights is that they can last up to 24,000 hours before they lose their usefulness as grow lights.

LED Grow Lights

From a power efficiency standpoint, LEDs can be the best bet for most indoor growers. LEDs have a semiconductor in them that lights up when current is passed through it. Because they run cooler, these are more efficient by orders of magnitude than more traditional incandescent lighting, so it’s picked up widespread use not only in home lighting systems but also when it comes to plant growth. The average LED bulbs can last 25,000 hours. They also give off very little heat, which can help keep your plants from burning under close exposure. Finally, many LED lights are color adjustable, meaning you don’t have to swap them out depending on where your plant is at in its growth cycle. The only real downside here is that they tend to have a higher upfront cost compared with investment in other lights.

green bean buddy grow light

Checkout this Fullspectrum Grow LED Light from Green Bean Buddy.

Full-Spectrum Bulbs, Balanced Spectrum And Adjustable Spectrum

When you’re looking at grow lights for your indoor gardening set up, you’ll see these full-spectrum light features in the specs for particular systems. The key thing to understand here is the wavelengths you’re looking for. This determines how much photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) your plant is getting. If you take a second to remember your high school physics (I know it’s a painful memory for some of us), you’ll recall that the wavelength of light determines its color.

Before we get into the visible spectrum, plants also benefit from some ultraviolet light that humans can’t even see. Ultraviolet light in the range of around 315 – 400 nanometers (nm) can be used to encourage pigmentation, a thickening of leaves and to discourage harm from insects.

For most growers, the colors of most interest are the blue spectrum, between 440 – 470 nm, and the red spectrum, either between 640 – 660 nm or 740 nm, depending on what you’re trying to achieve. Blue light encourages growth of vegetation and greenery on your plant, while red encourages fruiting and flowering in addition to the absorption of chlorophyll. The deeper red at the higher wavelength can be used to supercharge photosynthesis.

When you look at grow lights, a key spec for you will be what part of the spectrum they cover. One option would be to get a full or balanced spectrum grow light, which is meant to mimic the spectrum of the sun. This could be best for beginners and generalist plant growers who want to do planting without having to worry about the type of light that’s best at any given time. Balanced light also allows for some photorespiration. While this isn’t the most efficient thing to happen in the plant cycle, it does occur in nature. Allowing the plant to struggle somewhat can allow it to produce a higher yield and be healthier in the future. Think of it like exercise or inflation. Too much can be a bad thing, but in the right amount, there are beneficial effects.

If you want to take the next step and encourage thicker leaves and pigmentation in younger plants and flowering and seed germination when the time comes, you might experiment specifically with blue and red light. You can either get lights specifically for these purposes or some that are sold with adjustable spectrums which you can tinker with based on your plant and your specific goals.

There are a couple other key things to look at including lumens, which are a measure of brightness, which affect how much light your plant can absorb and the amount of PAR your plant is getting. PAR is a function not only of the color of the light, but also the distance between the light and the plant. The further you move the light from the plant, the lower the PAR value will be. Finally, consider the power requirements of your lights. After all, you’re the one paying for the electricity.

How Many Watts Per Square Foot Do I Need?

For indoor growing, you typically need between 30-50 watts per square foot of grow space, with thirty watts being the minimum and fifty watts being optimal.

Ideal Plants For Indoor Gardening

Depending on what you’d like to grow, there are a number of great plant growth starting points for your project. Herbs, fruiting, and flowering plants can be ideal ways to get growing!

Herbs

Herbs are one of the easiest things to grow indoors but require bright light. You can use water or another growth environment that doesn’t include soil and just make sure they have plenty of light to get started. Herbs as varied as basil, thyme and mint do well indoors at room temperature.

Leafy Greens

Leafy greens are incredibly easy to grow indoors with proper lighting, and they are good option for growing plants hydroponically. 

Some leafy greens can grow indoors in window sills, but for a good harvest in areas with less natural light, you’ll need a quality grow light. 

For these sun-loving plants, keep your grow lamps on for about 12 hours a day using a light timer. 

Check out the best hydroponic systems available!

growing green leafy plant under light

Fruits And Vegetables

Everything from garlic and tomatoes to watermelons and cantaloupe can be grown indoors, presuming you have access to the right amount of light or other artificial light and can control the temperature. It takes some care, but this can be done.

Flowers

You can start everything from geraniums to marigolds to petunias and a great many others from seeds indoors. Most work at room temperature and you can get them going using natural or grow lights.

Indoor Succulents

While not always necessary, a grow light can help keep your succulents looking vibrant after prolonged periods without much light. 

Final Thoughts

Whether you’re a pro-gardener or testing out your green thumb for the first time, using grow lights is a simple and effective way to get your plants the light they need. If your home’s natural light situation isn’t cutting it, get one of these light options today.

Indoor Gardening and Sustainability Scholarship

With the goal of raising public awareness for sustainability, Two Peas In A Condo is annually offering a $500 scholarship presented to college students who are growing plants or vegetables in small spaces and/or pursuing sustainability. To apply, you must write a blog post on how to grow a specific plant vegetable in a small space, or a blog post on ways to become more sustainable in college.

Write a 1,000- to 1,500-word, double-spaced blog article on the topic above and submit your gardening scholarships to [email protected]. Please include the following:

  •       Full Name
  •       Phone Number
  •       Date of Birth
  •       College/University
  •       Address of College/University

Here are some examples of blog posts for you to reference:

Please note that this is a blog post – not a journal or personal essay. The primary purpose of a blog is to educate the reader in a simple and engaging way. You may use first-person when you are an expert in the field you’re writing about, when referencing a personal example, or when mentioning an experiment you completed. If this isn’t the case, it typically makes the most sense to remain in third-person. When stating facts or data, you must source an expert with an in-text hyperlink

Please consider traditional blog formatting when writing your blog, including aspects like headers, links,  an intro, and a conclusion.

Who can Apply?:

Any student currently enrolled in an accredited college is eligible to enter.

Application Deadline:

This is an annual scholarship. The deadline to enter is April 10, 2021.

Notification:

We will not send you a notification confirming receipt of your gardening and sustainability scholarship submission. We will review all applicants after the deadline and will notify the winner on or around April 30, 2021. We will send a notification to the winner of each year’s scholarship via email.

Privacy:

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Contest Prize Winner Selection: 

There will be two (2) rounds of judging for the scholarship (finalist/first-round judging and grand prize/second-round judging) as follows.

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Growing Vegetables From Scraps & Avoiding Waste

If you can eat vegetables, it’ll be easy growing vegetables from scraps

Honesty time. I waste so much produce! My greens go slimy in the back of the fridge and I always buy more potatoes than I can eat! I’m not proud of it. If you can identify, good news, there is a solution that will ease your conscience and even your wallet. One viable option is composting. Tossing food scraps in the compost bin allows you to harness the food’s nutrients to feed your next garden. But did you know that you can grow vegetables from scraps, regrow your produce at home? Waste not, want not. Stick that cabbage right back in the ground (more or less). In hopes of saving some precious pennies and grocery store trips, here’s a simple DIY guide to turning your kitchen scraps to fresh produce at home.

Leafy Scraps

It’s salad time! Instead of letting your greens become wilted in the fridge, you can pick the fresh leaves right off the growing vegetables from scaps in your windowsill. 

Romaine Lettuce

Don’t throw away those leftover leaves. With just a few inches of leaf still attached to the lettuce’s base, place the base (leafy side up) in a saucer or jar and add just enough water to cover the base of the plant. Set the dish in a warm place like a windowsill where it can get lots of light. In a few days new leaves and new roots will begin to grow. After three or four days, when the new roots have grown to a sturdy size, you can transfer your lettuce to soil. Continue to water and watch it grow.

Bok Choy

Bok Choy is a personal favorite. The process of regrowing is actually very similar to that of romaine lettuce. 

Place the base in a dish of shallow warm water and store it in a sunny spot. And if variety is truly the spice of life, also try regrowing cabbages in this way. Bok choy, Romaine Lettuce and Cabbage are all classified as brassicas and their new growth will sprout from the hard base. 

Just a tip, cabbage can go right into a shallow planter of soil, but keep it nice and moist. 

Root Scraps

When growing vegetables from scraps, you simply cannot forget the hardy root vegetables, especially if you’re eternally hungry, like me. While some root veggies, like potatoes, can reproduce the entire plant, others like carrots, beets, and turnips can regrow their green tops which are surprisingly useful. 

Potatoes

Remember those wrinkly old potatoes you forgot that you bought a few weeks ago? Before you throw them out, check to see if they have begun to sprout. Especially if you store your potatoes in a cool, bright place, sprouts will soon form. Note that some veggies sold in stores are treated to prevent sprouting, so it’s a safer bet to go with a locally grown or organic option. But isn’t that always the case?

Once the eyes (sprouts) have formed, you can get ready to plant. Small potatoes can be planted whole, while larger varieties should be cut, making sure that there are a few eyes on each piece. 

Now, where to grow them? You don’t need an acre of garden space to grow a good amount of potatoes. You can even grow vegetables indoors from scraps or on your porch in a planter or bucket. Good news for us hungry, city apartment dwellers. You’ll want a container that can hold about 3 gallons of soil. I’m excited to go through the process of growing potatoes in a bin on my itty bitty city balcony, then I’ll share everything I’ve learned. Until then, walk through the process of growing potatoes in a container

If you’re transitioning your Aloe Vera plant from indoors to outdoors, don’t put them in full sun immediately. Place it in gradually brighter locations for about a week before exposing it to full sun conditions.

If bright sunlight is tough to come by in your space, one thing you can do is get a grow light so that the plant is getting what it needs. To encourage flowering, you can put it outside in the summer months. You just may want to slowly introduce it to the outdoors by finding a spot with partial shade at first before moving it to a more permanent space for the season. You should bring it back in when the nighttime ambient temperature dips below 50°F.

If the stem starts getting too long, it could be a sign that the plant is getting leggy and is the first sign of a problem in the lighting. The plant will literally try to stretch itself upward toward the sun or even bend toward a light source. If you notice this and find a different spot for the plant quickly, it’s possible to save it, but any bending that has already taken place can’t be undone. If it’s growing straight up, it’s possible to move the plant and then trim the excess, but you have to be careful because you want to leave enough of the stem so as not to damage the plant.

Do Aloe Plants Need Direct Sunlight

At a minimum, your aloe plant should receive full sun for at least six hours each day. If your aloe vera isn’t getting enough light, its fleshy leaves will grow long and leggy.

How Much To Water Aloe Vera Plants

Although it’s pretty hard to kill an aloe vera plant, one way to do it is by overwatering. Although it’s possible to not give enough water as well, it’s important to go against what might be your typical plant instincts.

When you first pot your plant, you want to put it in a warm spot that gets lots of indirect sunlight and leave it alone for a while. You shouldn’t water until the plant has settled in and the roots have taken hold.

When you do water, give it plenty, but don’t ever let the plant sit in standing water. During the summer, you might water every 2 – 3 weeks. To help you know when it’s time, you can use your finger. Don’t water until the potting mix is bone dry for a depth of an inch or two around the plant.

Like many plants, in the winter, your aloe vera should enter a state of dormancy where it’s not in an active growing cycle. Over the winter months, the succulent may be able to go longer without being watered.

Resist overwatering, and a mix that drains well will help take care of any other excess water. Signs of overwatering are mushy stems and leaves. They may also become brown. On the other hand, if the leaves are dry and shriveled, the plant isn’t getting enough water.

Pests And Diseases That Affect Aloe Vera Plants

The biggest problem that can affect your aloe vera plant is root rot, which is often a direct consequence of overwatering. These plants thrive on your neglect. Too much water can drown the plant and cause damage that the root system may not be able to recover from.

Beyond that, they’re susceptible to many of the same issues that plague other indoor plants. Indoor insects such as aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs are a scourge that should be dealt with carefully as they can lead to problems like scale, which is when the bugs suck sap from the leaves. If you get this or sooty mold, which will cause dark spots on the plant, you can take a look at insect treatments and pruning as options for mitigation.

Should I Cut The Brown Tips Off My Aloe Plant?

Brown tips on your Aloe plant are likely caused by insufficient humidity. You can cut them off this tropical plant without causing harm. But to treat the cause, place a humidifier near your aloe vera to up the humidity levels.

In some situations, brown spots on a plant can be fungus-related. If you notice fungus, remove this part of the plant.

Should I Cut Off Bent Aloe Leaves?

Assuming that only one or two aloe leaves are bent, you can cut them off without harming the plant. In fact, these bent leaves may not grow as well as the healthy parts of the plant. Similarly, remove damaged or old leaves, as this can stimulate new (and healthy) growth.

How To Grow A New Aloe Vera Plant

Aloe vera propagates by a process known as division. A mature aloe plant will have what are known as aloe pups or plantlets that start to show up. These are technically a clone of the mother plant. These young plants can be separated from the host and used to create new aloe vera plants.

In order to do this, use pruning shears or sharp scissors. Locate where they are attached to the plant and cut them off leaving an inch of stem or more on the pup. Leave the pup alone on a windowsill or other location that gets plenty of bright, indirect sunlight for some time until a callous forms over the area where you made the cut. This helps to prevent root rot. Once calloused, plant it in soil and wait at least a week to water. You want the potting mix to be fairly dry.

Growing Season

The growing season for Aloe Vera is typically considered spring and summer, but it can grow whenever the temperature is above 60 degrees, assuming it has proper humidity.

Conclusion

The aloe plant not only has some great healing properties, it happens to be fairly easy to grow with a little help from indirect sunlight or a grow light. In fact, they often do better if you leave them alone, so don’t worry too much about not giving it enough water. The watering can happen less than you think, particularly in the winter. This tropical plant is the perfect option for first-time growers.

How to Grow Seeds Indoors

Whether you live in a place without outdoor space (like us) or are just looking for an opportunity to jump-start your growing season, planting seeds inside may be a great option for you.

In this article, we’ll teach you how to get into the practice of seed starting in your very own home, creating a new plant. You’ll go from planting new seeds to having sprouts and your very own food or houseplants in no time. What’s more, when you sew a seed indoors, it can actually give you a head start on germination during the growing season. It’s really the best way to start your seeds.

We’ll go through the basics, show you how to successfully germinate your seeds, and explain the right growing medium, light, and water needed for the best chances for success.

Did You Know?

Did you know that, when growing outdoors, it’s important to consider the frost date. That said, the latest frost date does not necessarily mean you should sow all the seeds in your garden. It’s only a projected date that anticipates the end of evening temperatures below freezing.

Pros and Cons of Starting From Seeds

If you’re looking to get started with seed growing in your indoor garden, you should be fully aware of the benefits and drawbacks. We’ll run you through these now.

Pros

There are several upsides to starting from seeds.

  • Seeds are cheap: Seeds are the most inexpensive way to start a garden, so if you screw it up the first couple of times, you don’t have to be worried about losing the farm.
  • Seed starting can happen indoors: This is helpful because depending on where you live, the growing season could be limited – and in many cases, sporadic. You don’t want to put a particularly delicate plant outside if you live in Michigan where surprise snow in the first week of May might ruin things. 
  • There’s more variety: Your local nursery only has so many mature or young plants on hand. There are online options for seeds of all kinds, and you’re able to start and germinate whichever ones you want.
  • There’s a certain satisfaction to it: There’s an undeniable pride factor to the fact that you’ve taken this fragile life form from seed to garden or even to your table. It’s just cool.

Cons

As with anything else in life, there are also downsides to a decision to start from seeds.

  • Some seeds are more finicky than others: There are certain plants that are easier to start from a seed, while others can be temperamental. With that in mind, it’s important to do research on what you’re thinking about growing in advance so that you can be aware of what you’re getting into.
  • Timing is still important: You can start seeds indoors, which can help you save a plant from one or two early spring frosts, but you still need to get certain plants in the ground fairly early on so that the root systems develop properly. It’s important to know what USDA hardiness zone you fall into climate-wise. That way, you know what will thrive in your area and when to get it in the ground.
  • Some plants do best in specific germination environments: You will need to do specific research on the environment your plant needs to begin its growth cycle in the healthiest possible way. Some plants are going to require specific amounts of light or air circulation, so growing from seeds can require varying amounts of upfront investment and initial setup on your part.

For plants that are particularly hard to grow from seeds, getting plants or sprouts that began life in a highly-controlled nursery environment may be easier. If you go this route, just be sure it’s a plant that doesn’t mind being moved into more permanent soil later on.

Did You Know?

Did you know that a heating mat can be used to provide your seeds with a steady temperature, which can help support germination? You can purchase heat mats either online or at local garden centers.

Which Seeds Should Be Started Indoors?

The University of Clemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center lists several plants that should (and shouldn’t) be started indoors. There are several different types of vegetables you can grow indoors including potatoes, carrots and eggplants. Here’s a look at a table that shows the dificulty level of growing specfic seed types inside.

Similarly, seeds for a variety of fruits, such as tomato plants can be easy to germinate inside and then transplant outside when they’re ready. Check out the transplanting difficulty level on these fruit seeds, including avocados and tomato seeds. 

gardener's grow light stand products

Vegetable Seeds and Fruit Seeds

Some warm weather plants like tomatoes are easily transplanted and it’s ideal to start them indoors, particularly in cooler climates. With other plants, it’s not as common to start the seed packets indoors, but you may find it easier to get these going with the appropriate planning and research into what you’re looking to grow.

Plants That Can Be Started Indoors by Difficulty Transplanting
EasyTransplant With CareStart Outdoors
EggplantsSquashCarrots
PeppersPumpkinsCorn
AvocadosMelonsBeans
Tomato PlantsCucumbersBeets

 

Flower Seeds

Like vegetables and fruits, you can start a flower with your very own seeds. Use this chart, provided by the University of Missouri Extension for a germination guide to sowing common annual flowers seeds in the home.

Flower typeGermination timeGrowing tempCrop timeComments
Ageratum5 to 8 days60 to 65 degrees F10 to 11 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Alyssum, sweet4 to 8 days50 to 55 degrees F8 to 9 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Aster8 to 10 days60 to 62 degrees F7 to 8 weeks 
Begonia, fibrous10 to 12 days60 degrees F16 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Celosia6 to 10 days65 to 68 degrees F10 to 12 weeksDon’t grow cool.
Cleome10 to 12 days70 to 75 degrees F7 to 9 weeksTransplant before flowering.
Coleus8 to 10 days65 to 75 degrees F9 to 10Needs light to germinate.
Cosmos5 days65 degrees F4 to 6 weeks 
Dianthus5 to 7 days50 to 55 degrees F12 to 14 weeksCover seeds lightly. Grow cool.
Dusty Miller10 to 15 days60 to 65 degrees F11 to 12 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Geranium, seed7 to 10 days60 to 65 degrees F13 to 15 weeksBest if grown in small pot.
Gomphrena10 to 14 days68 degrees F9 to 10 weeksCrop time for dwarf types.
Impatiens15 to 18 days58 to 60 degrees F10 to 11 weeksCover seeds lightly.
Lobelia15 to 20 days60 degrees F11 to 12 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Marigold5 to 7 days65 to 68 degrees F8 to 12 weeksTall types require more time.
Melampodium7 to 10 days60 to 62 degrees F7 to 8 weeks 
Nicotiana10 to 15 days60 to 62 degrees F9 to 10 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Nierembergia10 to 15 days60 to 62 degrees F10 to 11 weeksKeep cool during germination.
Pansy/Viola6 to 10 days50 to 55 degrees F14 to 15 weeksGrow at cool temperatures.
Pepper, ornamental8 to 10 days60 degrees F11 to 14 weeks 
Petunia6 to 12 days55 to 60 degrees F12 to 13 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Phlox, annual6 to 10 days50 to 55 degrees F10 to 11 weeksDirect seed into containers.
Portulaca6 to 10 days65 degrees F12 to 13 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Salvia12 to 15 days60 degrees F9 to 11 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Snapdragon7 to 12 days45 to 50 degrees F15 to 16 weeksNeeds light. Grow cool.
Statice15 to 20 days50 to 55 degrees F8 to 10 weeksGrow at cool temperatures.
Stock10 to 14 days50 to 55 degrees F9 to 10 weeksGrow at cool temperatures.
Torenia10 to 15 days55 to 60 degrees F12 to 13 weeksNeeds light to germinate.
Verbena12 to 20 days55 to 60 degrees F12 to 13 weeksChill seeds before sowing.
Vinca10 to 15 days65 to 68 degrees F14 to 15 weeksGrow in warm temperatures.
Zinnia5 to 7 days60 degrees F8 to 9 weeksDirect seed into final container.

 

Where to Get Seeds?

If you want to start growing from seeds, there are various options which may be available to you. You could certainly start at your local nursery. The advantage here is that you’ll know for sure that they are stocking options suited to your particular climate. However, local nurseries are likely to be beholden to whatever sells best in order to make the most money possible given limited shelf space. With that in mind, you can turn to specialty online sellers if you want more options.

These are just a few of the options, but the real key here is that the best of the sites will let you select seeds and other materials suited to your particular climate zone, based on the USDA hardiness recommendations referenced earlier.

What Containers Are Needed for Starting Seeds Indoors?

You’ll need a place to start your seeds. While there are going to be some traditional options on this list, you can also use other materials you have around the house.

  • Seed trays: This is one of the most common methods of going about finding a starting container. The advantage of this is if you go to any nursery or site online, they’ll give you guidance about what size to get all based on what you’re trying to grow.
  • Plastic bags: One thing you can do if you don’t have a ton of time to water your plants is create a plastic bag growing environment which will help with water retention. When you do this, you want to water them for a few days outside the plastic bag. When you put the seeds in the bag environment, you want the soil to be moist but not too wet. Too much water isn’t good for the root system. When you put plants under plastic, you’ll want to keep them out of the window because the plastic works as an insulator and can superheat your plants. Of course, plants need light, so be sure to remove the bag every once in a while and give them the sun they need. Finally, poke holes in the bag for air circulation. Plastic wrap should work as well as a bag. If you have a bigger planter box, one of the options you have is to plant right within a bag of topsoil as long as you cut drainage holes in the bottom of the bag.
  • Peat pots: The advantage of peat pots made from peat moss is that they are biodegradable, so if you wanted, you could choose to put them right down the soil and never have to worry about transplanting certain plants depending on the size.
  • Egg cartons: Cardboard egg cartons can be cut apart and used to plant seedlings. You don’t have to worry about removing the cardboard either because it will break down as it sits in the soil.

Preparing the Potting Soil

You want to make sure you have the right soil (or lack thereof) to thrive in an indoor environment. It’s possible to use the soil from an outdoor garden to grow your seedlings, but there are some drawbacks to this. There are often things like fungi, weed seeds and other disease-causing spores and bacteria that you really don’t want in your house. A well-regulated seed-starting mix will also do a better job of providing drainage.

As far as feeding the plants, you’ll want to take a look at liquid fertilizer. It’s easy to apply and may be better for starter plants because it can be applied directly on the plant and more easily absorbed.

Soil Mix or Soilless Mix?

One of the best ways to plant seeds indoors is with a soilless mix. This is usually based off of peat moss which is light and also provides a sterile growth medium while retaining water well.

Additives like perlite and vermiculite can be included in your potting mix to help provide the right combination of airflow, drainage and water retention. It’s important to research the right mix of these ingredients for your appropriate environment based on what you plan to grow.

Seed Starting Trays

When it comes to your seed starting trays, make sure you have enough space for what you’re planning to grow. Some things will do just fine in the egg carton containers, but plants with bigger root systems will need more room for their root system. Be prepared to get larger containers.

You should also consider what plants will need to be transplanted in order to determine the right container, which typically needs to happen when they are at least three inches tall and have their second set of leaves present. If they will need to be moved to a more permanent environment when the seeds sprout, reusable starter containers that can be used for multiple plants in the course of their lifetime will be cheaper. If the plants won’t be moved, consider peat pots or another material that will degrade over time in the soil.

Drip Trays

Plants, particularly developing ones without extensive root systems, won’t retain all the water you give them. They’re going to weep. Because of this, you may want to purchase drip trays to contain the runoff so that your entire living space doesn’t become a soggy mess.

The size of your water mitigation system is going to depend on the size of the plant, so keep this in mind. You should be able to get these at any nursery or hardware store.

Starting Seeds Indoors

Now that you’ve got your basic materials and maybe even some seeds at this point, it’s time to think about when and how you start this enterprise.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s a good idea to start your seeds inside up to six weeks before they need to be moved outside, if they’re going to be moved at all. However, that’s going to depend on local climate conditions and the plant itself. All plants require different germination times.

How Many Seeds Should You Plant?

Typically, you only want to plant two to three seeds per hole. There is not a 100% germination rate for seeds, so they may not all sprout. Having extra seeds improves the changes that a plant will germinate and grow. 

How to Start Planting: Seeding

When you start planting, follow the directions on the back of the seed packet in order to make sure you’re planting the seeds at the proper seeding depth. If you don’ know what the seeding depth should be, a good rule of thumb is to plant the seds 4x as deep as the width of the seed. 

One thing of note is that tiny seeds should barely be covered with soil, while larger seeds need to be slightly deeper.

Beyond that, there are considerations for your plants in terms of how much light, water and heat they’re going to require and how you as a plant parent can deliver on those needs.

How Much Lighting Do Seeds Need?

Different seeds have different light needs as they first germinate. There are some that germinate better in the dark, others that germinate in bright light, and some that don’t seem to care either way. You’ll need to refer to your seed packet for the right info on your specific seeds. 

Read our blog: Difference between Grow Lights Vs. Regular Light

For the plants and seeds that need a lot of sunshine during the day, such as kale or green beans, you’ll want to place them in a sunny window, preferable in a south-facing window to get the most light opportunity. If you live in the city and have limited lighting available, you may need to shop lights for best results, such as fluorescent lights or other grow lights. This can be the best way to ensure that you have enough light for proper germination.

green bean buddy grow light

Checkout this Fullspectrum Grow LED Light from Green Bean Buddy.

At What Temperature Do Seeds Germinate?

While lights and sunshine will likely produce some level of heat, it’s important not to exclusively rely on your light to produce the needed heat. 

Most seeds germinate in a soil temperature that is anywhere between 65-85 degrees. For most people growing indoors, this range falls within room temperature. However, if you’re planting seeds in a drafty basement during the winter (do basements get drafts?), the easiest way to check the temperature of the soil is with a soil thermometer. 

If it’s too cold, consider purchasing a heat mat to provide sufficient bottom heat. 

Here are the ideal ground temperatures for specific plants.

CropsMinimum Temp (F)Optimum Temp (F)Maximum Temp (F)
Asparagus5075-8595
Lima Beans6075-8585
Beets4065-8595
Broccoli4060-8595
Cabbage4060-8595
Carrots4065-8595
Cauliflower4065-8595
Swiss Chard4065-8595
Garlic3265-8595
Leeks3265-8595
Lettuce3260-7585
Muskmelons (Cantaloupe)6075-85105
Okra6085-95105
Onions3265-8595
Parsley4065-8590
Parsnips4065-8590
Peas4065-7585
Peppers6065-7595
Pumpkins6085-95105
Radishes4065-8595
Spinach3265-7575
Squash6085-95105
Tomatoes5065-8595
Turnips4060-95105
Watermelons6075-95105
Source: California Master Gardener Handbook, 2nd edition, Regent of the University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3382 (Table 5.2, page 114).

How Much Should I Water Seeds?

When you first plant seeds, water is what will start the germination process. That said, too much water will cause them to rot, while too little could cause the embryos inside to die. You should lightly water your seeds, and you’ll need to continue watering them at least daily to keep the soil moist. You can use a spray bottle to do this or a watering can, but be sure not to overwater your plants. Drainage is incredibly important, too, as you don’t want standing water. 

Seed Starter

Another option to improve and monitor your watering is to purchase a seed starting kit lid, which can hold in the humidity while also providing the air circulation needed. 

How often Should You Fertilize Seedlings?

As surprising as it might sound, young seedlings typically don’t need fertilizer at first. They have enough nutrients inside them to germinate, even if there aren’t enough nutrients in the soil. But once you notice sprouting and leaves start to appear, you should consider fertilizer. An all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer is a typically good option, such at this one from Gardeners.com or from any local garden center.

Thinning Seedlings

Once your seeds have germinated and started sprouting, you may need to thin your healthy seedlings. The main reason you would need to thin is due to planting multiple seeds (remember – two to three) to increase the odds of success. If multiple seeds have germinated in the same space, you’ll need to thin the seedlings.

In the end, you want to make sure that each plant has room for development – both above and below the soil. Having them too close together can cause your seedlings not to get enough sunlight or air-circulation. To thin your seedlings, remove the weak or unwanted, which can be removed with scissors at the soil level.

Can You Use Old Seeds?

Many gardeners get a little seed crazy when they start prepping their gardens and purchase more seeds than they need. But can those seeds be reused in future years? The  quality of the plant should change if the seeds germinate, but the likelihood that they germinate goes down the longer they go without being planted. According to Under the Solano Sun, seeds in good condition will last at least a year, and may even last longer. Here’s a table that gives you an idea of the shelf life of your seeds:

1 Year2 Years3 Years4 Years5 Years
OnionsCornCarrotsPeppersBeets
ParsnipsPeasLeeksChardTomatoes
ParsleyBeansAsparagusPumpkinsEggplant
SalsifyChivesTurnipsSquashCucumbers
SpinachOkraRutabagasWatermelonsMuskmelons
 Dandelion BasilCelery
   ArtichokesCeleriac
   CardoonsLettuce
    Endive
    Chicory

Troubleshooting: Why Didn’t Your Seeds Germinate?

Did your seeds not germinate when you planted them indoors? Here are the main reasons that you can use for some DIY troubleshooting:

  • You planted the seeds incorrectly – too deep or not deep enough
  • You over/underwatered your seeds
  • Your potting mix didn’t have proper drainage or you used a garden soil mix with pathogens that potentially caused damping off
  • You used seeds that had already expired
  • You provided your seeds with the wrong amount of light (too much or too little, depending on the seed)

In most cases, your seeds didn’t germinate due to user error, which is nothing to be ashamed about. Most seeds grow very quickly, so it’s not difficult or expensive to start again. Just keep trying and work out the kinks along the way.

Conclusion

Starting from seeds indoors can be a fun way to start your garden at any time of the year. And even though this article is long, it’s typically a pretty simple process. Take what you’ve learned and get started with your very own indoor garden today!

21 Must-Know Tips For  Growing Kale Indoors

Kale has become an increasingly popular choice of leafy greens in the last decade. And why not? This nutrient-dense veggie pairs well with almost every meal. Sandwiches, pizza, pasta, soups, fresh salads, smoothies – you name it – you can integrate kale into all of them. And kale chips are a delicious and healthy snack.

And while it’s fun to eat kale throughout the year, it doesn’t grow well outdoors in many places. It’s a cool-season vegetable that can typically handle some frost in its adult form, but areas with more extreme cold weather temperatures aren’t always ideal for growing kale.

Instead of worrying about the time of year to plant kale, skip the grocery store and grow your own inside! You don’t have to worry about planting after the last frost. And if you live in a city or somewhere with less outdoor gardening space, growing kale indoors can be the perfect solution. These plants are surprisingly easy to grow in an indoor garden, they can be a great way to supplement your grocery budget, and their many-shaded leaves can be the perfect accent for any home.

Let’s dive into the exciting world of growing kale indoors.

Can Kale Be Grown Indoors?

While kale is traditionally grown outside, it’s possible – and even easy – to grow kale indoors all year-round. With proper lighting, soil, and nutrients, you can grow mature kale, baby kale, and even kale microgreens in a small indoor space.

Growing Kale Indoors (In A Nutshell)

Here are all the things you’ll need to start growing kale indoors. We’ll break down these individually in the article. But here are the basics:

  • kale seeds – common varieties listed below
  • grow lights or another light source that gives kale full light during the day
  • potting for seeds
  • fertilizer
  • water
  • planting medium (potting soil/potting mix works fine for most situations)

What Is Kale?

This green superfood is in the cole crop family of the species Brassica oleracea, and shares some similarities with non-heading cabbage, swiss chard. A decade ago, kale was mainly grown in the U.S. as a garnish on dishes, but this changed once we started to learn the health benefits of actually eating the leafy vegetable.

What Does Kale Look Like?

There are several varieties of kale – each with specific distinguishing features and sizes. One of the most common types sold in American grocery stores is called Common Curly Kale (or just curly kale), which has light green spines (the stem through the middle of the leaf), and ribs (steps that run through the leaves). Check out these most common types of kale:

Kale Varieties

  • Common Curly Kale – This is a typical American variety with a range of bluish-green color in the leaves – with the edges of the leaves frilling at the end.
  • Lacinato Kale (includes Dinosaur Kale and Tuscan Kale) – This kale has longer, darker leaves (unlike most common varieties).
  • Thomas Jefferson grew this type of kale in his garden.
  • Dwarf blue curled – Dwarf varieties are often more manageable than other, larger varieties, which can grow up to two feet when they’re mature. Dwarf varieties are recommended if you’re planning to grow your kale on a windowsill or balcony.
  • Red Russian – This variety of kale is known for being semi-sweet and tasting good raw.

Here’s a breakdown of types of kale and links to buy seeds.

Growing Kale Indoors From Seed

When planting kale seeds, you must sow seeds from 1/4 to 1/2 each deep, according to the Old Farmer’s Almanac. Typically, you should use a seed tray for germination that has proper drainage. For the growing medium, use either a growing mixture designed for vegetables or a soilless medium that includes perlite or vermiculite.

Here are some of our favorite types of potting mixes available from Amazon:

When you sow seeds, only put a few of each seed in each container and cover them with about 1/2″ inch of the growing medium you’re using. 

It’s important to keep your seeds warm during this period – close to around 70 degrees F. It can technically germinate as low as 48 degrees F, but lower temperatures will slow down the speed of germination.

If you’re worried about keeping your kale seeds warm enough, consider using a Seedling Heat Mat. They’re affordable and useful for controlling the temperature.

If you’re planning to transplant your kale from indoors to outdoors, the best time to sow your seeds is in early spring or mid-summer, which will ensure a late summer or winter harvest. Another option is to start about one to one and a half months before the last frost then move the plants outside when the weather warms. 

Thinning Kale

We recommend that you thin your kale about ten days after planting, which will help the healthiest sprouts to thrive. For all the plant lovers out there, this may be a difficult step, but it improves the health of your plant and overall harvest.

Thin the kale seedlings so they are between 8 and 12 inches apart. Kale typically takes five to eight days to germinate from a seed. This can sometimes happen faster if you’re using a grow light that allows for more hours of sunlight.

If you germinated your kale seeds in a tray, you can transplant them to larger pots after about two weeks.

How Many Days Does It Take To Grow Kale

Mature kale is ready to harvest in about 60 days, depending on the variety. You should wait until the leaves reach about seven inches before harvesting. If you’re interested in growing baby kale, which has a slew of benefits, you can harvest in as little as 25 days.

Check out these 29 veggies that you can harvest in under one month!

Soil

A quality potting soil that’s high in organic matter will work for kale. It needs to be a potting mix that drains well and typically has a pH of 6.0-7.9. Some potting soil options that work well for kale include the following: Gardener’s Potting Mix, Miracle Grow All Purpose Potting Mix, and The Sill Organic Potting Mix. 

If you’re planning on growing the kale in a hydroponic garden, you would be better using a soilless growing medium such as peat moss. This would help keep the soil from getting into the water pump of the hydroponic system. Whatever growing medium you choose, you’ll be harvesting the leaves, so your indoor kale plants must have access to a high amount of nitrogen.

Stay clear of using soil from your garden, which could lack proper nutrition or contain diseases that your kale will be susceptible to. 

You must keep the soil moist when growing kale, as it’s a fast grower. It should never dry out fully.

illustration of kale in pot and soil

Growing Kale In Containers Indoors

Depending on the variety of kale you choose, the space needed indoors may vary. But even smaller varieties, such as Dwarf Blue Curled varieties, need a 12″ container per plant. This is quite different from other veggies, such as carrots, which could grow several plants at once in the same 12″ space.

Does Kale Need Direct Sunlight

When growing kale indoors, it should still receive full sun during the day – typically six hours or more, but it can also grow with partial shade, which is four to six hours during the day. One of the best places to get the needed light for your kale plants is in a south-facing window. 

Don’t have a sunny window  with access to six hours of light? No problem. Another option for a light source is to get a grow light. Grow lights can help you supplement your plants with natural light during the day. This artificial light can be an excellent way to give the kale plant the much-needed sun it needs. In most cases, your grow light should be around six inches above the top of the plant, but move it further away if you notice scorching.

Here are some basic grow lights you can use for kale:

Check out the best small grow light options we recommend.

Temperature

Kale is a cool-season leafy green, so you want to keep it in cool temperatures . The preferred soil temperature for growing kale is approximately 60-65 degrees. That said, a bit of frost can sweeten the taste of kale, so you may want to stick your plants outside if the weather allows.

While cool weather is usually better, too much cold can also be dangerous. If you’re growing kale in a shed or anywhere else with dangerously cold temperatures, here are some grow mat options to help regulate the temperature.

Watering Kale

You want to make sure your soil stays moist but not overly damp. For most growers, this amounts to 1-1.5 inches of water per week. The soil should be noticeably wet – but there should not be standing water in the pot. If you start to see your kale’s leaves turning yellow, it is likely a sign that you’re overwatering it.

Best Fertilizer For Kale

Any balanced fertilizer (like a 10-10-10) will work well for kale, especially a water-soluble fertilizer that you mix with one gallon of water. Typically, you should fertilize your kale every seven to ten days. Here are some top fertilizer options for growing kale indoors.

How to Harvest Kale

You can harvest kale periodically when the outermost leaves are about the size of your hand. Start by taking these mature leaves off the plant (the more tender leaves are best), which allows the younger leaves to continue growing. The mature kale plant leaves will last up to 14 days if you place them in the refrigerator in a sealed plastic bag.

Growing Kale Hydroponically

If you’re growing kale indoors, it may make sense for you to raise these greens hydroponically. This means that you’re not growing with soil and – instead – are growing the kale using nutrient-rich water distributed along the roots and growing medium. Most countertop hydroponic systems can quickly grow kale and other greens. AeroGarden, Gardyn, iHarvest, and Rise Gardens both provide excellent options for growing kale indoors. Check out the best hydroponics systems for growing kale.

How To Grow Kale Microgreens

Microgreens are young edible greens produced from a vegetable or herb. Research suggests that young kale microgreens are an excellent source of potassium, calcium, and antioxidants.

For kale microgreens, you’ll start with a container that you fill to the brim with rich soil, spray with water to make it moist, and then distribute seeds evenly across the top of the soil. You want to cover the entire surface with the kale seeds. Water the seeds lightly, and then cover them up with aluminum foil to keep out all the light.

After 3-5 days, your kale seeds should have germinated and are ready for sunlight – or you can use an artificial light. You’ll want to continue watering them regularly, but not enough to develop mold.

You should be ready to harvest your kale microgreens just about ten days after planting them. You can use a paring knife to harvest these microgreens.

What Is Kale Good For?

This supreme leafy green has been called a superfood. And there’s a lot to be said for it. Kale has antioxidants, calcium, vitamin K, vitamin C, vitamin A (a single cup will give you 200% of your daily requirement), fiber, manganese, copper, potassium, magnesium, vitamin B6, and more.

Here is the full list of nutrients in kale.

nutritional facts of kale per 100g graphics

Benefits of Growing Kale Indoors

Whether you don’t have the space or you’re just craving a kale smoothie during the dead of winter, growing kale indoors is an ideal option. And many varieties of kale look visually appealing, so they can even work as a houseplant. Not only this, but having kale inside means, you can easily access your harvests without taking a trip to the garden.

Kale Pests To Look Out For

One of the benefits of growing indoors is that your plants are protected from most pests. But if a window or a door is ever open, an infestation is still possible. Here are some of the most common pests known to hurt kale:

  • ​Harlequin Bug
  • Imported Cabbage Worm
  • Aphids
  • Gnats
  • Flies
  • Flea Beetles

For help with pests on your kale, start here.

The Big Idea

Fresh kale can be grown in the comfort of your home. It’s an easy plant that you can raise without much time or effort, and it will be sure to provide you and your family with highly nutritious leafy greens throughout the year. Start growing kale today with these easy steps. So whip out your green thumb and get started today!

How To Grow Garlic Indoors

Garlic is a delicious vegetable that’s also pretty easy to grow indoors. And there’s nothing better than Garlic is a delicious vegetable that’s also pretty easy to grow as indoor plants. And there’s nothing better than having fresh garlic at your fingertips. Not only this, but garlic greens look great in a kitchen and can double as cute houseplants. Today, let’s go through the steps and challenges of growing and planting garlic indoors. It’s simple to plant, grow and harvest your own garlic. And it’s a great entry into the world of indoor gardening.

Garlic Bulbs and Green Garlic Shoots: The Indoor Controversy

Before we dive in, we should note that there’s a lot of disagreement in the gardening community on what can and cannot be grown indoors when it comes to garlic. The cold weather – which garlic plants in many climates would normally experience outside – is a big factor in garlic bulb development. Because of this, a lot of growers say it’s not possible to grow garlic indoors. This isn’t true, but I can see where they’re coming from.

In this article, we’ll do two things. First, we’ll show you the right way to grow garlic bulbs indoors and then provide you with options for harvesting shoots as a countertop herb.

How Is Garlic Grown Outside? And Why Is That Important For Us?

It’s important to first understand how garlic grows outside. This way, we can mimic the growing cycle when we bring our bulbs indoors.

Outdoors, in cooler regions, the best time for garlic planting is in the fall, typically around September or mid-October. This should be before the first frost.

The reason they’re grown at this time is to begin establishing the root bulb without generating substantial growth of the shoots. 

The garlic then goes dormant until early spring. At this point, the root continues to grow for 3-4 months and reaches full size. At this point in the plant’s life cyce, the shootsl start to die, and the plant is ready to be harvested.

So to recap, there are four steps to growing outside:

  • The garlic is planted cool weather to start the roots – but only minimal shoot production
  • Cold winter months make the plant dormant
  • The bulb reaches maturity in the spring
  • When the lower shoots start to brown, it’s time to harvest

From this process, we can pick up some tricks about how to grow garlic.

How To Grow Garlic Bulbs Indoors: Vernalization

The most important part of growing a true garlic bulb indoors is to subject your garlic bulbs to a process called vernalization. This just means that you need to make the environment around the garlic cold. In other words, you’re simulating winter for your garlic.

The best way to do this is to put your full bulbs in the fridge for 4-6 weeks to properly chill the plant.

While this step isn’t explicitly necessary, vernalization helps you produce optimum growth of your garlic bulbs.

Container Gardening

For growing garlic bulbs indoors, you don’t necessarily need a wide container. It just needs to be at least 8-10 inches deep to allow for proper root development

Drainage is incredibly important for garlic plants, which can rot or develop mold if they’re in too much water. Be sure to include a few drainage holes at the bottom of the container to support good drainage.

Potting Mix For Growing Garlic Indoors

While you can grow garlic in regular potting soil, it’s best to grow indoor garlic in a soil-less potting mix. You can either buy a potting mix, or you can create your own with a combination of vermiculite (puffed clay), perlite (puffed quartz), coconut fiber, peat moss, bark and fertilizer. These soil-less potting mixes will provide excellent drainage, which is important for preventing a fungal root disease.

Garlic Bulbs

While it’s possible to grow with garlic from a grocery store, there’s a good chance this garlic has been While it’s possible to grow with a head of garlic from a grocery store, there’s a good chance this garlic has been chemically treated (so it will last longer), and it won’t sprout well (or at all). Instead, purchase an organically grown garlic bulb – you can purchase these either on Amazon or at your local nursery. Be sure to keep the garlic bulb in tack until you’re ready to plant the garlic cloves.

Garlic Varieties

There are two primary types of garlic (although, some people put Elephant garlic in a third category) called hardneck and softneck varieties.

Hardneck Garlic

Hardneck garlic is known for having a flavor that’s more intense than softneck garlic. For this reason, it’s a common favorite among chefs and cooks. It’s also known for having skin that’s easy to peel. The main downside of hardneck garlic is that it has a short shelf life. It will typically only last four to five months. One of the most popular hardneck garlic varieties is called Rocambole.

Softneck Garlic

 While not as flavorful as hardneck garlic, softneck garlic is probably the garlic type that you’re most familiar with. It’s commonly found in a grocery store – likely the artichoke or silverskin garlic varieties. It has a longer shelf life and typically produces a higher yield with larger bulbs, which makes it a great option for grocery stores. 

Garlic Knowledge is Garlic Power: garlic is a species in the Allium genus, which means it’s relatives with scallions, chives, and onions.

Preparing the Garlic

Now that you’ve gotten your garlic bulbs, and your container is filled with the right potting mix, you’re ready to prepare the garlic cloves. Gently break the garlic bulb apart and take out the garlic cloves. You’ll want to take the biggest and healthiest looking cloves, and you’ll want to leave the white/grey paper-like material around the clove.

When you find smaller cloves within the bulb, just set those aside for flavoring your food. Smaller cloves often produce smaller bulbs when grown.

Plant Garlic

When planting your individual cloves, you should plant with the flat end down and the pointed side up. The blunt side is where the roots will grow, while the pointed tip will produce the leaves. 

Push the cloves at least 2-3 inches deep in the potting mix. You’ll also want about an inch of soil on top of the clove. Each of the garlic cloves should be about four inches apart.

Watering Garlic

Immediately after planting, you should water your garlic. After the initial watering, you only need to water when the first couple inches of soil start to feel dry. This will help keep the growing medium evenly moist. You want to make sure you’re not overwatering it, though, which can cause things like mold and fungus to grow.

Lighting And Placement

Now that your garlic is planted, you’ll want to place it somewhere that receives6-8 hours of direct sunlight a day, such as a south-facing windowsill. If that’s not an option for you (our Chicago condo only receives a couple hours of sunlight a day), you’ll need to look at grow lights, which can simulate real sunlight.

In terms of artificial lights, we typically recommend that you use LEDs, which do a pretty good job of mimicking the full-spectrum light your garlic would receive under direct sun.

Here are some small grow light options we recommend.

Fertilizing Garlic Plants

Before you even plant your cloves of garlic, you should consider adding some compost to the growing medium to give your garlic cloves an initial feeding.

During the growing months of spring, you should then apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month. If you want to grow organic garlic, I recommend you use a simple organic fertilizer. If that’s not something you’re worried about, a traditional granular fertilizer should be fine.

Here are some good fertilizer options for growing garlic, including fish fertilizer options:

Photo Title Price Buy
Natural Plant Food...image Natural Plant Food Fertilizer All-Purpose NPK Plant Care. 18 Balanced & Blended Vitamins & Minerals with Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms to boost your plants growth by Liqui-Dirt. Yields 50 Gallons $36.95
Neptune's Harvest Fish...image Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer 2-3-1 (Gallon) $47.52 ($0.37 / Fl Oz)
Miracle-Gro Performance Organics...image Miracle-Gro Performance Organics All Purpose Plant Nutrition Granules - 2.5 lb., All-Purpose Plant Food for Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs, Feeds up to 240 sq. ft. $24.94 ($0.62 / Ounce)
Dr. Earth Organic...image Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer Poly Bag $21.42 ($0.33 / Ounce)

Harvesting Garlic

If you’re planning to harvest the garlic bulb, it can take up to 10 months for it to be ready. You’ll notice that the previously green shoots will begin to turn brown. Dig the garlic bulbs up from the ground and then let them dry in a spot with good air circulation for approximately two weeks. Store garlic in a place away from the sunlight and on a newspaper to absorb the water.

At soon as the skin becomes paper-like, you’re ready to start using your fresh garlic!

Growing Garlic For Shoots

Now that we’ve discussed how to grow the bulb, the rest of this post will largely be about growing garlic shoots – which eventually become garlic scapes on hardneck varieties- which have a slightly more mild form of garlic, and they’re a great way to garnish food. These garlic greens are incredibly simple to grow, and you will begin seeing garlic sprouts just 7-10 days after planting them.

What You’ll Need To Grow Garlic Indoors

Here are the essentials you’ll need:

  • Container
  • soil-less potting mix
  • Light source (grow light or access to direct sunlight)
  • 3-4 garlic cloves
  • watering can
  • Water

Growing garlic for the shoots is the same as growing garlic for the bulb, but you don’t need to put your bulb through the vernalization process. You can simply take the garlic cloves and plant them in your container. In a matter of weeks, you will start seeing new shoots appear that work well as an herb.

Your garlic greens should start sprouting – assuming your plants have had the appropriate amounts of sun and water – within the next 7-10 days. After a couple weeks, they should be around 5″ tall, which is when you’ll want to start harvesting them. Make sure you keep at least an inch of the garlic greens in place so your plant can regrow again.

In a well-ventilated space, you can expect to keep your plant for up to eight months.

DIY Garlic

Garlic is one of the most versatile vegetables available, and now you can grow it in the comfort of your Garlic is one of the most versatile vegetables available, and now you can grow it in the comfort of your own home. If you have access to an outdoor garden, it may make sense to grow garlic bulbs outside. But in a pinch, you can easily grow garlic greens inside. We’ll work on growing the garlic bulb indoors and let you know our results as soon as we have them!

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